This was my bi-annual food and culture weekend.
We decided to bypass the Museum of Fine Arts this time and chose instead a walking tour of the green alleys of Le Plateau. Le plateau being one of the trendiest neighborhoods on the island, I was curious to get a closer look. I was aware that there are a lot of alleys in the city, usually in the back of houses, between backyards, but had never really investigated them. In the 40s, 50s and early 60s, alleys were bustling with activity: children playing, horse drawn buggies delivering milk and bread and ice and coal, the ragman calling out for handouts, drying laundry flapping in the wind, this was the center of urban family life. Nowadays, with smaller families and more working parents, as well as the advent of technology, the alleys have been abandoned, in favor of the front of the properties.
Lately though, thanks to some municipal initiatives as well as some personal ones from homeowners, there have been efforts to reclaim those spaces and make them healthier, prettier, and more pleasant spaces… case in point: le Plateau now boasts several “green alleys”. There are different styles of greening. Some are now covered in grass, some are shaded by trees and decorated with flower boxes, while others are more artistic with urban sculptures and decorations. Here are a few examples of what we saw.
As for the food part of the adventure, we tried 4 different restaurants. The first one being a Turkish restaurant, the same one that catered my surprise birthday party last year: Restaurant Su. We chose the tasting menu, which I regretted a bit as I was interested in tasting their lamb shank and that was not on our menu. Having said that, the Mezes , these wonderful appetizers were delicious and I would have been happy to dine on those alone… The place filled up quickly and became very noisy which spoiled the fun for us… Definitely worth a visit but I would avoid their peak hours.
http://www.restaurantsu.com/default_en.aspx
The next day we tried the brand new Birks Café. They are located inside the Birks jewelry store and serve lunch and tea and cocktail hour snacks. We opted for the afternoon tea menu. Served in wonderful china and glassware, the food was as tasty as it was pretty to look at, not surprising when you know that this restaurant is under the hand of chef Jerome Ferrer, of the Europea restaurant.
A most elegant place to have tea…
http://www.birks.com/fr/static/cafe/welcome.htm
Our third meal was in a bistro on McGill avenue in old Montreal: Restaurant Vallier. Their claim to fame is reinventing old staples such as mac and cheese with bacon, shepard’s pie with duck, and meat loaf with game and foie gras. They also have a selection of burgers. The most exciting part of the evening was watching a drug transaction going out on the sidewalk…not a memorable restaurant.
http://www.restaurantvallier.com/
And finally our last meal, which was brunch, was the most original. The restaurant: Le chien fumant on De Lanaudière street is a tiny bistro in le Plateau. I had read less than good reviews about it and was hesitant about trying it, but I liked the look of it from outside so felt intrigued enough to go in. The place is filled with quirky antiques; it makes you feel like you are visiting some old aunt’s home. The service was nice, if slow, and we were told the menu changes everyday, so it is hard to recommend anything but I had sweet potato waffles with pulled pork and an egg sunny side up on top. It was as tasty as it was unexpected. I also had a taste of a saucisson en brioche also served with an egg and some lovely apple and bacon compote… Great meal! Well worth the experience.